Control Unit Input Test
NOTE:
- Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control unit first, using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
- Before testing, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ) to make sure the information display.
- Before doing the input tests, check the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
MICU
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover (see INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect under-dash fuse/relay box connectors D, E, F, G, and T.NOTE: All connector views are shown in illustration from wire side of female terminals.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
- Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained E6 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G401)
- An open or high resistance in the wire
T34 F20 - Poor ground (G501)
- An open or high resistance in the wire
D2 PNK Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty ignition switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
G2 PNK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 23 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
E37 YEL Driver's door open Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty driver's door switch
- Faulty driver's door switch ground
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Driver's door closed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V. - Faulty driver's door switch
- A short to ground in the wire
E3 LT GRN Front passenger's door open Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty front passenger's door switch
- Faulty front passenger's door switch ground
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Front passenger's door closed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V. - Faulty front passenger's door switch
- A short to ground in the wire
E17 LT BLU Left rear door open Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty left rear door switch
- Faulty left rear door switch ground
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Left rear door closed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V. - Faulty left rear door switch
- A short to ground in the wire
E2 GRY Right rear door open Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty right rear door switch
- Faulty right rear door switch ground
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Right rear door closed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V. - Faulty right rear door switch
- A short to ground in the wire
E12 BLU Hatch glass open Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G601) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty hatch glass latch switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Hatch glass closed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V. - Faulty hatch glass latch switch
- A short to ground in the wire
E36+(1) LT GRN Tailgate open Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G601) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty tailgate latch switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Tailgate closed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V. - Faulty tailgate latch switch
- A short to ground in the wire
(1) Without power tailgate Gauge Control Module
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Remove the gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ), and disconnect the 32P connector from it.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 9.
- Reconnect the connector to the gauge control module, and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 10.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 13 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G401)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
16 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 23 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
32 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Substitute a known-good gauge control module, and recheck the system.
- If the symptom is gone, the gauge control module is faulty; replace it (see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
- If the symptom is still present, the MICU is faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box (see REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).