Stall Speed Test
- Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see ATF LEVEL CHECK ).
- Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels.
- Connect the HDS to the DLC (A).
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM, and go to the A/T Data List. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
- Make sure the A/C switch OFF.
- After the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), shift to the 2.
- Firmly press and hold the brake pedal, then fully press the accelerator pedal for 6 to 8 seconds, and note engine speed. Do not move the shift lever while raising engine speed.
- Allow 2 minutes for cooling, then repeat the test in D, 1, and R.NOTE:
- Record the engine speed at 6-8 seconds after pressing the accelerator pedal. High engine speed will be indicated for 5 seconds.
- Do not test stall speed for more than 10 seconds at a time.
- Stall speed tests should be used for diagnostic purposes only.
- Stall speed tests result should be the same in D, 2, 1, and R.
- Do not test stall speed with the A/T pressure gauges installed.
Stall Speed rpm
Specification: 1, 950 rpm
Service Limit: 1, 800-2, 100 rpm
- If any of the stall speeds are out of the service limit, refer to the problems and probable causes are listed in the table.STALL SPEEDS PROBLEMS AND PROBABLE CAUSES LIST
Problem Probable causes Stall speed rpm high in D, 2, 1, and R - ATF pump output low
- Clogged ATF strainer
- Regulator valve stuck
- Slipping clutch
Stall speed rpm high in 1 - Slippage of 1st clutch
- Slippage of 1st gear one-way clutch
Stall speed rpm high in 2 Slippage of 2nd clutch Stall speed rpm high in R Slippage of 5th clutch Stall speed rpm low in D, 2, 1, and R - Engine output low
- Engine throttle valve closed
- Torque converter one-way clutch slipping